All Things Art, Food & Culture: Istanbul
This is the third edition of my "All Things" capturing a city, since I am in my second home Istanbul, I thought I would try to capture its vibrancy from my eyes.
Although I was born in London and have lived more than half my life abroad, Istanbul is my second home town, my place of origin, and where the majority of my family is based. Known for bridging East and West, Istanbul initially known as Byzantium, was founded by Greek colonists from Megara in 657 BC and renamed it Constantinople in the honour of Emperor Constantine the Great in 330 AD. More than 1,000 years later, the city fell to the Ottoman Turks in 1453, led by Sultan Mehmed II. This marked the end of the Byzantine Empire. Over time, the city became commonly known as Istanbul, a name which may have been derived from a Greek phrase 'eis tin Polin' meaning 'to the city'. The official renaming to Istanbul occurred in 1930, as part of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk's reforms in the newly established Republic of Turkey (where his presence and values missed more and more).
But enough of its history. I am here to give some tips and shine light to the city’s most popular and great spots to hang out, eat and see art. Istanbul's unique blend of history, culture, architecture, and strategic location makes it one of the world's most fascinating cities reflecting a mixture of Byzantine, Ottoman, and Turkish influences including its expat minorities. Istanbul straddles two continents, Europe and Asia, divided by the Bosphorus Strait. This unique position has made it a significant trade and cultural crossroads throughout history. The city's landscape is adorned with seven hills, offering panoramic views of the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. I personally just love to wander around if I have no immediate meetings I need to rush to as the traffic can be pretty unbearable (even during its off-peak times).
The Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya in Turkish), originally a Byzantine church, later an Ottoman mosque, a museum and now a mosque again (thanks to Recep Tayyip Erdogan’s not so secular Türkiye), is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture. At close proximity in the same area located near the old city, The Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque) and Topkapi Palace are prime examples of Ottoman architecture, showcasing intricate Islamic art and design. The Basilica Cistern itself is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath Istanbul. They recently reopened it and renovated it for the public, but be aware, they charge different prices to tourists than locals and probably, if you want to visit all of these sites in one day by jumping the hour-long queues, best to organise a tour-guide beforehand. If you are visiting Istanbul for the first time, you’ll need at least 5 nights to see the majority of the sites, restaurants and galleries to get an understanding of the city and enjoy your stay.
If you are an early riser like me, don’t miss the walks (where you’ll see fishermen) by the Bosphorus and definitely try to come to Emirgan or Bebek area for breakfast. Places you can visit for a traditional Turkish breakfast spread called “Serpme Kahvalti” are:
Mangerie ( a more modern take in Bebek)
Moving on from breakfast to restaurants and popular roof top bars, I’ll list my top 5 below.
Popular Restaurants
Neolokal: Known for its modern take on traditional Turkish cuisine, offering a unique culinary experience with a focus on local and sustainable ingredients.
Karaköy Lokantasi: With a selection of 80 mezze, a whole host of sharing platters and other traditional dishes, you're spoilt for choice. This is understandably a popular place and staple, where the quiet terrace and sea blue tiled wall are a feast for the eyes.
Araka: With its seasonal, carefully curated menu and 1 Michelin star, Araka is a hidden gem, tucked in a small alleyway in Yeniköy.
Pandeli: whilst visiting the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market, don’t miss out on this gem, located just above the Spice Market on the 1st floor. With delicious traditional food with a contemporary edge, you won’t regret coming here.
Aheste: With Turkish, Ottoman and Middle Eastern influences and mezzes (tapas-like dishes), it is the perfect spot for a date or to go with a group to share their generous tasting menu. With its informal atmosphere and laid-back service, Aheste is always booked, so make sure to make a reservation in advance.
Hip Rooftop Bars
Mikla Restaurant and Bar: While it's also a renowned restaurant, Mikla's rooftop bar is famous for its panoramic views of the city and its stylish, cosmopolitan atmosphere.
Monkey Istanbul: Known for its vibrant ambiance and creative cocktails, this rooftop bar often features DJs and live music, making it a popular nightlife spot.
360 Istanbul: As the name suggests, it offers a 360-degree view of Istanbul. It's not only a bar but also a restaurant, well-known for its lively atmosphere and parties.
Simone: Simone Istanbul is a rooftop restaurant-bar located in the vibrant Asmalı Mescit area. As a chef-owner restaurant, it offers a unique dining experience with plates designed for sharing. The menu at Simone changes seasonally, and many of the ingredients used are homemade, ensuring freshness and quality. I have had one of my best Pizzas in Istanbul there. They also have amazing cocktails, so you can just visit it for that and the amazing view.
Vogue: Vogue Restaurant and bar, offers the best of modern European cuisine as well as meticulously prepared sushi, Vogue Restaurant represents sophistication for those desiring a refined dining experience in this charming city that unites continents. You can also make a reservation for cocktails and snacks or sip a delicious glass of wine from their extensive wine list.
Some Tips for Visiting
Reservations: Popular spots can get booked up quickly, especially on weekends. Making a reservation in advance is highly recommended.
Dress Code: Some of these places might have a smart-casual dress code, so it's a good idea to check in advance.
Seasonal Variations: Rooftop bars are particularly popular during the warmer months. Some may close or have limited hours during winter.
Istanbul's cultural scene is a vibrant mix of traditional and contemporary arts, reflecting the city's unique position at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. Here are an example of galleries and museums that capture the essence of Istanbul's rich cultural tapestry:
Istanbul Modern: is a contemporary art museum designed by Renzo Piano located inside the Galataport complex in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, Turkey. As Türkiye’s first museum of modern and contemporary art, Istanbul Modern mediates the sharing and transfer of our country’s artistic heritage on a global scale and brings together artistic productions from various geographies in Istanbul.
Pera Museum: Located in the historic Beyoğlu district, Pera Museum is known for its outstanding private collection by Suna-Inan Kirac Foundation, which include Orientalist paintings, Anatolian weights and measures, and Kütahya tiles and ceramics. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions, film screenings, and cultural events where I got the chance to also co-curate Memory & Continuity.
Sakıp Sabancı Museum: Situated in Emirgan, one of Istanbul's most prominent neighborhoods, this museum is part of Sabancı University. It houses an extensive collection of Ottoman calligraphic art, religious and state documents, as well as paintings by Turkish artists. The museum's mansion and gardens are also quite stunning.
Arter: Founded in 2010 as a subsidiary of the Vehbi Koç Foundation, Arter is a sustainable, vibrant cultural hub, offering a broad range of programmes accessible to everyone. Arter is a contemporary space artistic production, exhibition, and experimentation. It's known for showcasing works of contemporary artists from Turkey and around the world, making it a hotspot for contemporary art lovers.
Dirimart: This gallery is known for its sizable exhibition spaces in Nişantaşı and Dolapdere. Dirimart hosts a diverse range of contemporary artworks, including paintings, sculptures, and multimedia installations, and represents a number of prominent international artists.
Galeri Nev Istanbul: One of Istanbul's oldest galleries, Galeri Nev is dedicated to contemporary Turkish art. It showcases works by both established and emerging Turkish artists, often focusing on socially and politically engaged art.
PİLEVNELİ Gallery: Located in the Dolapdere district, PİLEVNELİ is known for its avant-garde exhibitions. The gallery represents a variety of contemporary artists and is committed to promoting Turkish art on an international scale.
Zilberman Gallery: Founded in 2008 in Istanbul, Zilberman expanded internationally with the addition of the Berlin gallery in 2016 and the Miami gallery in 2023. Serving as a global hub for artists, the gallery transcends borders to promote and support artistic practices worldwide. Committed to fostering emerging talent, Zilberman actively takes on the responsibility of cultivating the careers of young artists. Zilberman occupies two distinct floors within the historic Mısır Apartment, a prominent example of art nouveau architecture in Istanbul.
Pi Artworks: Located in both Istanbul and London, Pi Artworks is a contemporary art gallery that promotes artists and fosters cross-cultural dialogue.
Their Istanbul branch, founded in 1998, has been a key player in the development of the contemporary art scene in Türkiye and has helped to create a more diverse and inclusive art world.
SALT: Though more of a cultural institution than a traditional gallery, SALT hosts a variety of contemporary art exhibitions, research projects, and public programs. It has locations in Galata (SALT Galata) and Beyoğlu (SALT Beyoğlu).
As a city that straddles two continents, has a thriving fashion and design scene that reflects its unique cultural and historical blend. Here are some of the most famous fashion and design districts on both the Anatolian (Asian) and European sides of the city:
European Side
Nişantaşı: Known for its upscale boutiques, designer stores, and luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Beymen, Chanel and Mapa, Nişantaşı is Istanbul's most fashionable neighborhood. The district is also home to chic cafes and art galleries, making it a popular spot for the city's elite and fashion-conscious crowd.
Beyoğlu and Istiklal Avenue: This area, including the famous Istiklal Avenue, is a bustling hub of activity, known for its mix of vintage stores, local designer boutiques, and international brands. The side streets of Istiklal Avenue, like Çukurcuma, are filled with antique shops and quirky local designers.
Galata and Karaköy: These neighborhoods are known for their avant-garde fashion boutiques and independent designer shops. The area has a bohemian flair and is a great place to find unique clothing and accessories.
Kadıköy and Moda: These neighboring districts are known for their youthful and alternative vibe. The streets are lined with small boutiques, second-hand clothing shops, and local designer stores, making them perfect for those looking for unique and affordable fashion.
Bağdat Avenue: This upscale shopping street rivals its European counterparts, offering a mix of luxury brands, Turkish designer boutiques, and international retail stores, along with a variety of dining options.
I personally don’t love shopping malls as I get agoraphobic but if you are a keen-shopper and want to see some, you can always visit Zorlu Centre, İstinye Park or Akmerkez.
The traffic in Istanbul can be quite unbearable but if you are going to use a taxi you can use your uber application or BiTaksi for registered Taxi companies so they don’t fool you. For additional questions about public transportation please visit here.
I hope this extensive guide to Istanbul helps and that you can share with loved ones who are visiting the city! Thanks for reading.